I had coffee with my old boss on Tuesday and I explained to him that this weekend I’d be addressing the topic of white summer shoes to which he had many questions.
“White shoes can (and should!) be a little dirty, now!” I found myself defending. To which his concerned reply questioned if there is a point at which they are too dirty? Celine says no (as you will see below), but I understood what he meant. So today we are going to try to define that point of no return – but also all the great white shoe styles out there for rain and shine. How to touch up our white leather (hint: professionally) and of course, explore what makes dirty white….good!?
The Canvas Rain Shoe
We’ll start with a bunny hill shoe if there ever was one to practice managing your dirty shoe anxiety. Not wanting to muck up all my beloved (and expensive) strappy sandals on rainy summer days, I almost always opt for a canvas sneaker when there is a chance of precipitation. Yes, yes, I know that canvas does not repel water. But I don’t mind when they get a little damp and have to dry overnight in the hall. Plus, the look continues to be good when it stops raining – nothing worse than being stuck in a rain boot when the sun coms out (IMO).
Plus, the rain actually expedites getting your canvas whites to that perfectly worn in look quicker. When they get really bad, I have been known to spray them with this and then throw them in the washer/dryer. Always an option.
Good distressed sneaker vs bad distressed sneaker
My first thought when seeing all of the distressed sneakers at Celine’s menswear show in Paris two weeks ago brought up a bubbling anxiety over my distaste for designer sneakers in general and my loathsome attitude (currently, though never say never!) toward Golden Goose style distressing. But I enjoyed the Celine sneaker!?!?! 🤔 I would still likely rather get the original, but I loved the thoughtful stretching of the tongue, the rounded toe, the playfulness with the laces and the subtle logoed wingtip design. They weren’t a NO like so many other designer kicks. Why though??
Celine was more extreme with the styling of their jazz shoe/plimsoll hybrid. I inquired with the brand to see if they were indeed selling them that way and their informal response was no (in regards to the jazz shoe), but that they thought the designer wanted to send a message that you should really live in your clothes.
I loved that they wanted to convey this message! When the constant newness around us feels gauche, what actually is luxurious?? TIME. Time spent wearing in your things to make them yours. TIME to build a sense of style in your own skin (and shoes.)
This was the conversation I got deep into this week with Friend of 5 Things Emily E. She was quick to point out that a beat up Hermes bag found second-hand could reasonably be considered cooler and more covetable than buying one new (see: Amazonia rubber). The ultimate luxury is time and it will always come back to that.
The difference now is that the visual markers to convey time are changing – now luxury is in the nicks and dings that prove you’ve loved something longer. It’s not necessarily the pristine, overt branding that represents time spent building the relationship to acquire.
So back to WHY DO THE CELINE REEBOKS WORK? Because the style already feels old/familiar and the distressing made to look natural. And there is minimal additional flair. With something like a Golden Goose (sorry GG that you have to be my punching bag today!) the faux-ness of it is just too readily apparent and the distressing one of many points of interest making them overall, too much.
Five Outfits Made Better by a Dainty White Flat
The dainty white flat is the ultimate summer NON-sandal. It allows serious clothes to lighten up and it makes uber-casual clothes look a little dressier. All while keeping those toes tucked away if you’re one of those Never Sandals On The Subway!!!! types.
Lately I’ve been wearing them for dinner with my tuxedo pants and any/every top I own from my frilly Bode from last summer to this Aflalo thingamajig to a little graphic vintage tee from my ever-growing collection. For the nights when I want to walk home and not be bothered with a heel but still look a little more dressed up than a (fancy) flip flop.
They make my summer uniform of big shorts and a camp-style tank top feel dressed up.
And give a feminine energy to my extra extra big jorts, on that note. You’ll notice the shoes worn with my big white shorts below are the Jamie Haller ballerinas and the ones above are Martiniano’s glove flat. I have two pair (oh crap, three actually counting the Repetto Zizi).
I tend to like the bone/dusty white Jamie Hallers with other shades of off white and darker colors and vintage, pieces that are dusty by nature. And on the other hand, I love the optic white with preppy things and neons and more modern shapes. Just a personal preference, but for those who are here to really get into the weeds with me….now you know.
Sam Hine, menswear editor at New York Mag made a case for the Zizi (which we first discussed in Oct 2025) at men’s fashion week in Paris two weeks ago with sporty separates. And you better believe I’m going to create my own version.
A nice break from the whole flip flops and sport short trend. So sport shorts and…err….ballerinas!
And then of course there is the man whom the shoe is best known for. Might the Zizi be the unicorn closed toe, flat shoe that looks good with jeans!??! I think we are going to need to revisit this in the fall…don’t let me forget.
A side note on the white pump
Old boss asked on Tuesday….but what about white leather heels? Can those get dirty? And I’ve been giving it a good think. Honestly, I’d make sure you are at black diamond, jump out of the helicopter, skins on your skis level of fashion savant to consider rocking a white pump at the moment. You know I never say never, but one must be extremely careful in this category. It’s one area where I don’t think a beat up look works. A trashed stem? No thank you. And a very hard style not to wear you. So I think I’m just going to say…no on this, for this summer at least. Stick to flats (or if you must, a little block ballerina will do!!) And if you have a specific white pump question – side chat me and we will work it out. 🙂
How to clean white leather
During my conversation with said old boss, he regaled me with an old love story about his Paul Smith sneakers – a white pair he had bought and worn to death three times over. There does become a point in time when your shoes just look…well…too dirty – depending on your environment. Midtown office? Probably don’t want to be so dirty the clients are confused. Meeting your future in laws? You don’t need to be showing off your fashion expertise…just yet.
The Celine sneaks above look intentional. The Sperry and Vans weekend docksiders come with an underlying expectation of wearing-in. Styles that lend themselves to dirtiness. But what about my white Church’s fisherman sandals that have a tar smudge on the toe!? That doesn’t look thoughtful – just kind of gross.
I tried cleaning this off with Dapple and a microfiber at home but it just kind of smudged. And watched countless YouTubes about scrubbing with toothpaste, but I don’t really want to put toothpaste on these – they’re too precious to me. So, I took the question to a cobbler.
The cobbler confirmed that the more I rub, the more I will just discolor the leather. And so as he cleans the one – he will polish and treat the full pair to ensure a match. They’re due back to me tomorrow (if you’re reading this on Sunday) and I’ll make a note on his success in the comments – but I’m 100% confident in him. He was upset with me for not wanting to add a protective sole or clean up the edges…but like I have said before – your cobbler/tailor is not your stylist. The final look still needs a bit of worn-in-ness, even though that is counter intuitive to the skills they bring to the table. He smiled and said ok, I guess you’re special. And well… I think I am, and isn’t that what matters? 🤣
Moral of the story – just take it to a professional if you are nervous about messing it up. But be specific or you’ll get the full monty.
I ended the week at a pilates session that I could not seem to muster the energy to give my all. But all was not lost, because tucked away by the door were my instructor’s dirty white Repetto Zizis. I gasped. This is my story this weekend, I blurted out!! After hounding her to find the words to explain why she likes them better dirty she professed her love of the game – the process of making them mold to her feet and resulting attachment she has to the end product. Plus she said, “if you go to the museum, Serge Gainsbourg’s were way more fucked up.”
Yours TRULY,
Becky
