E t’s a brief moment after Valentino’s 2007 haute couture anniversary show in Rome. Karl Lagerfeld congratulates the Italian designer backstage, hugs him and whispers in his ear: “Compared to us, the others are miserable.”
Valentino designed Jackie Kennedy Onassis’s wedding dress, created the famous Valentino red and always wore a leathery brown complexion. He was one of the great couturiers of the 20th century. The Italian died on January 19th in Rome at the age of 93, his foundation announced.
The last emperor is called Valentino Garavani in the documentary, which also shows the above scene with Lagerfeld. “Valentino: The Last Emperor” accompanies the then 72-year-old as he prepares for the event opulent three-day extravaganza in Rome designed to celebrate 45 years of his work with his eponymous brand.
Sand on the stage? No! Dunes? No! Voluminous guyboudainesque hairstyles? No! No! No! He needs chignons! And tall models, just not dwarfs. Valentino, or Mr. Valentino, rarely Valentino Garavani, knows exactly what he wants and fights for it, sometimes ruthlessly.
Valentino needs sequins! 5 million sequins!
Especially towards his former love and eternal life partner Giancarlo Giammetti, he gets nasty in front of the cameras, for example when their creative ideas don’t match. He then apologizes, not with words, but with a diamond bracelet and a mischievous smile.
Valentino couldn’t properly express his gratitude to him, says Giammetti. He is the stabilizing force behind Valentino’s creative process. The two met in 1960, together they founded the fashion house Valentino, and they were lovers until 1972.
“The Last Emperor” shows not only their relationship and the laborious creation of the anniversary show, but also the splendor of his fashion and life. Valentino always travels with his five pugs, whose teeth are brushed and earrings clipped onto their ears. Valentino always wears a suit, owns villas in France and Italy, a yacht and needs sequins! 5 million sequins, hand embroidered on the dress!
His couture is romantic and hyper-feminine. Airy, transparent fabrics, often pleated, with flowing lines. He talks about film icons that he saw and understood as a child: he also wanted to dress women beautifully. Because being beautiful is what women want. And, as he says in the film, he loves beautiful women, beautiful dogs and beautiful furniture.
“My deepest gratitude goes to Giancarlo Giammetti”
He will later dress the film icons he admired as a child himself. Julia Roberts, for example, wears the famous black and white Valentino dress as she In 2001 she won the Oscar for Best Actress for “Erin Brockovich.” wins.
Uma Thurman, Liz Hurley and Gwyneth Paltrow also love Valentino – they all appear at the anniversary celebration in Rome that will herald the end of his career. A year later, he sold the fashion house and gave up his position as creative director.
When he was awarded the Legion of Honor in Paris in 2006, the documentary captured a moment of tenderness behind the pompous facade. Valentino’s voice cracks after he thanks various people for their support over the years. “My deepest gratitude goes to Giancarlo Giammetti,” he says with tears in his eyes. “My partner from the beginning, who stayed by my side over all these years.” Giammetti also cries. “I thank him from the bottom of my heart.” Valentino’s face is contorted in pain. He doesn’t dare look over at Giammetti.